How to Tear-off and Shingle a Gable Roof

A Do-It-Yourself Guide to Roofing Installation

© Jim Whitton

Jul 13, 2009

Gable roofs are usually less labor intensive than hip roofs, but the basic principles for both are similar. Before getting started tearing off a roof, take accurate measurements and gather all the necessary materials and equipment. Once all the materials are on site, it’s time to tackle the job itself. This article assumes the use of dimensional rather than 3-tab shingles.

Tools Needed for Roofing Installation

• Chalk line.
• Roofing nailer, compressor, hose and air tool oil.
• Caulk gun.
• Circular saw and extension cords.
• Hammer, tape measure and pencils.
• Hammer tacker or staple gun.
• Aviator snips.
• Ladders.
• Roof jacks as needed.
• Dumpster container for the tear-off and all the roofing debris.
• Shingle removal shovel.
• Roofing magnet.
• Utility knife with hook blades for cutting shingles.

Directions for Tearing off a Gable Roof

Before tearing out any section of a roof, check the weather forecast and be sure there will be enough time to get it covered back up with ice and water shield and felt by the end of the day. Do not try to do too much at once without sufficient help.

1. Begin at the ridge, removing the ridge shingles and working downward toward the eave.
2. Be sure to save any functional roof vents for reuse.
3. Pull any pipe boots loose and try to save them if possible.
4. Remove the drip edge, felt paper and ice and water shield.
5. If the dumpster is positioned near the eave, try to throw tear-off materials directly into it to avoid having to handle it all twice. Otherwise, place tarps on the ground to make clean-up easier.
6. Inspect roof sheathing for rot; cut out and replace any rotted sheathing.
7. Pick up all tear-off from the ground and place it in the dumpster.

Directions for Shingling a Gable Roof

1. Install new drip edge across the eaves, overlapping each ten-foot section at least an inch.
2. Install six feet of ice and water shield across the eaves, especially in northern climates.
3. Cover the rest of the roof with 30# felt paper, lapping the last sheet over top of the ridge.
4. Install drip edge up the gables, starting at the bottom and working up to the ridge. Be sure the nails are not ending up in the space between the fascia board and roof sheathing.
5. Measure the height of starter shingles and snap a line allowing them to extend past the end of the drip edge by at least 1/2".
6. Install starter shingles across the eave. Be sure to extend them at least 1/2" over the gable edge as well, for extra weather protection.
7. Install the first course of shingles, making sure to stagger them relative to the starter shingles if they are the same length to avoid leaks. Run the front of the shingles flush with the starter shingles already in place. Be sure to follow directions on the shingle packaging for proper nail locations.
8. Snap lines for the remainder of the gable roof to keep each shingle course straight. Do this as often as necessary to feel comfortable. Every fourth course is usually sufficient. (If need be, there's nothing wrong with snapping a line every course, though it is a bit time-consuming.) Hook the tape measure on the drip at the corner of the eave and the gable edge. If the shingles have a 5 5/8" exposure, for example, mark 22 1/2"" (5 5/8" times 4) up from the bottom, then 45", then 67 1/2", all the way up the gable. Mark the measurement along both gables and snap the line.
9. Install several courses at once to save time while working up and across the roof. For the novice, an easy way to efficiently use material is to start with a full shingle, then cut off 10 or so inches, then use a half shingle, then use the ten or so inches left over from the second course. By cutting straight, four courses can be established with no waste. The half shingle left over can be saved for the next four courses. This method also works well with snapping lines every fourth course, since a chalk line can be followed every trip across the roof.
10. When reaching the other end of the gable, notice how easy it is to minimize waste with dimensional shingles. Again, the advantage of working multiple courses at once comes into play.
11. Maintain a consistent 1/2" overhang past the end of the drip along the eave as you work up the gable.
12. Shingle all the way to the ridge, working around chimneys, stack pipes, etc.
13. Reinstall vents, if saved. Otherwise, install new box vents or ridge vents, making sure to follow directions for proper function. Make sure to cut out felt for ventilation.
14. Repeat this process on other side of gable, then shingle over the ridge with hip and ridge shingles or single tabs of 3-tab shingles. Use 3" roofing nails to nail down ridge shingles if shingling over ridge vent.
15. Install any flashing as needed, and caulk any exposed nails heads on flashing, vents, pipe boots, etc.
16. Clean up thorougly. A roofing magnet is relatively inexpensive and does a great job picking up nails in bushes, grass, and driveway cracks.

Plan Ahead Before Roofing Your House

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